Rutabagas are a hardy vegetable that grow best in cool weather.

Spring Planting

Rutabagas are sensitive to heat, and only grow well when temperatures are 75°F and cooler. For most areas they should be planted in the fall only.

Fall Planting

Plant seeds 14 weeks before the frost.

If you live in a mild climate with a late or no fall frost date (after Nov 1), you might be able to grow turnips all during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Turnips grows best in a rich soil and are susceptible to boron deficiency; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting, Borax at planting.

Harvest

Harvest when tops are 6-8″ tall and roots are 4-5″ in diameter.

Similar to: Turnips

More Resources

• Rutabaga Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)

Turnips are a hardy vegetable that grow best in cool weather.

Spring Planting

Plant seeds directly in the garden 6 weeks before the frost date. You can plant 16 per square and then thin them to 9 per square as you use the tops for greens.

If you live in a climate with hot summers, choose varieties that mature quickly.

Fall Planting

Plant seeds 10 weeks before the frost.

The plants will mature more slowly in the fall because the days are shorter, but since they can tolerate freezing temperatures, you can continue harvesting after the first fall frost.

If you live in a mild climate with a late or no fall frost date (after Nov 1), you might be able to grow turnips all during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Turnips grows best in a rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and once during the season.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting, 21-0-0 six weeks after plants emerge.

Harvest

Harvest when tops are 6-8″ tall and roots are 2-3″ in diameter.

Similar to: Rutabagas

More Resources

• Turnip Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)

Cauliflower is a semi-hardy vegetable that grows best in cool weather. It is one of the most difficult vegetables to grow, because it can’t tolerate too much heat or cold. Temperatures should be between 40°F and 75°F. Cauliflower requires nutrient rich soil, and constant moisture to grow successfully.

White varieties are the most well-known, but green and purple varieties are easier to grow and have more nutrients.

Spring Planting

In most areas there is not enough time to grow cauliflower from seeds before the weather gets too hot.

Start seeds indoors 11 weeks before the frost date, or purchase transplants.

Transplants are ready when they have at least 3 true leaves, but not more than 6. Harden off and transplant outside 4 weeks before the frost date.

If you live in a climate with hot summers, choose early-maturing varieties to plant in the spring (45-60 days).

Fall Planting

Start seeds indoors 14 weeks before the first fall frost date, or purchase transplants (if available). You can also plant seeds directly in the garden 12 weeks before the first frost date.

Transplants are ready when they have 2-4 true leaves. Harden off and transplant outside 8 weeks before the frost date.

Soil and Fertilizer

Cauliflower requires very rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and once during the season. It particularly needs boron, phosphorous, and potassium in the soil before planting. After planting it will need at least one application of nitrogen.

Fertilizer: 10-10-10 and Borax at planting, 21-0-0 four weeks later

Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season; apply mulch in dry areas to retain water. If the transplants are too large, the soil deficient, or the temperatures too cold or hot, the heads will “button”–form small heads that never grow and mature.

Harvest

White cauliflower won’t look or taste as good if the head is exposed to the sun. It must be protected from the sun by wrapping the leaves around the head. Most current varieties are self blanching, so you should not have to secure the leaves.

Harvest before the flower buds open (they get “ricey”), when the head is still tight. Cut off just below the head.

Similar to: cabbage, broccoli

More Resources

• Cauliflower Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)
• Recipe: Veggie Lasagna

So, I tried it:

Here you see 5 “legs” of onions (queen size). I harvested 25 pounds of onions, so I figure each leg is about 5 pounds.

I cut the pair in two right up the middle, dropped in an onion, worked it to the bottom, tied a knot, and repeated until I couldn’t fit any more.

I hung them on my pantry door for a picture, but I’m actually storing them in the cool, dark basement so they will keep longer. When I need an onion, I take my scissors downstairs and cut one off the bottom.

By the way, I actually had to purchase nylons because I can’t remember the last time I wore a pair!

How many legs of onions did you harvest?

Beans (bush and pole) are a tender vegetable that grow best in warm weather.

Spring Planting

Beans do not transplant well. Plant bean seeds directly in the garden during the week of the last frost.

Pole beans should be planted all at once with 8 per square. They take slightly longer to mature, but then continue producing beans throughout the summer.

Bush beans are planted 9 per square. After maturing they will produce beans for 2-3 weeks, and then they can be pulled up. Extend the harvest of bush beans by planting one or two squares every 2 weeks.

Fall Planting

Pole beans will continue to produce until freezes in the fall kill the plant. Bush beans can be planted throughout the summer and be harvested during the fall until frost kills them.

Soil and Fertilizer

Beans grow best in a rich soil that drains well; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting.

Fertilizer: Apply 16-16-8 at planting.  If desired, apply a fertilizer low in nitrogen once or twice during the season. I like to use this Fertilome Blooming and Rooting (9-59-8), it really seems to promote flowering and fruiting of the plant.

Support

Pole beans will do best with a trellis. Bush beans do not require support, though if they are taking up too much space you can use string to loosely tie them together.

Harvest

Harvest bush and pole beans when they are small and tender, before the seeds start to mature and swell. Picking beans encourages production, so be sure to harvest regularly.

More Resources

• Beans Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)
• Another Beans Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)

Peppers are a very-tender vegetable that grow best in warm weather.

Spring Planting

Peppers take a long time to grow from seed to harvest. In most areas there is not enough time to grow pepers from seeds before the weather gets too cold in the fall.  Start seeds indoors 7-8 weeks before the frost date (7 weeks for bell peppers, 8 weeks for hot peppers), or purchase transplants.

Transplants should have 6-9 true leaves. Harden off and transplant into the garden 2 weeks after the frost date.

Fall Planting

Peppers require average night time temperatures of 55°F to set fruit, so even in areas without frost it is unlikely you can grow them during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Peppers grow best in a soil that drains well; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and once during the season.

Fertilizer: Apply 16-16-8 at planting.  Apply a fertilizer low in nitrogen up to every 4 weeks. I like to use this Fertilome Blooming and Rooting (9-59-8), it really seems to promote flowering and fruiting of the plant.

Organic boosts: Save egg shells and allow them to dry. Combine 1 dozen egg shells with 1 gallon of water, allow to steep for 24 hours. Water the pepper plants and discard the egg shells (or add to your compost pile). Repeat as often as you wish, up to every 3 weeks.

Combine 2 Tablespoons Epsom salts (purchase in the shampoo section of the store) with 1 gallon of water. Apply to leaves via a spray bottle and/or pour on the soil, about 2 cups per plant. Repeat as often as you wish, up to every 3 weeks.

Support

Peppers don’t require support unless they grow very large, or if you live in a windy area. In this case, stake the peppers by planting a 3-4′ stake in the ground at the time of planting. Tie the stem of the pepper plant to the stake with a soft material like old pantyhose or garden velcro tape.

Harvest

Harvest fruits as they ripen. Peppers can be harvested when green, or after they turn yellow, red, purple, etc.

More Resources

• Pepper Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)
• Recipe: Fresh Salsa
• Recipe: Canning Salsa
• Recipe: Yummy Marinara Sauce
• Recipe: Thai Green Curry

Tomatoes are a very-tender vegetable that grows best in warm weather.

Spring Planting

Tomatoes take a long time to grow from seed to fruit. In most areas there is not enough time to grow tomatoes from seeds before the weather gets too cold in the fall.  Start seeds indoors 6 weeks before the frost date, or purchase transplants.

Transplants are ready when they have 5-7 true leaves. Harden off and transplant outside 2 weeks after the frost date. Tomatoes can be planted very deeply, for the “fuzzy stem” will grow into roots if placed in the earth and watered.

Fall Planting

Tomatoes require average night time temperatures of 55°F to set fruit, so even in areas without frost it is unlikely you can grow them during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Tomatoes grow best in a rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and up to every 4 weeks after that.

Fertilizer: Apply 16-16-8 at planting.  Apply a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorous when fruit sets and repeat up to every 4 weeks. I like to use this Fertilome Blooming and Rooting (9-59-8), it really seems to promote flowering and fruiting of the plant. The Fertilome Gardener’s Special (11-15-11) would also be a good choice.

Organic boosts: Save egg shells and allow them to dry. Combine 1 dozen egg shells with 1 gallon of water, allow to steep for 24 hours. Water the tomato plants and discard the egg shells (or add to your compost pile). Repeat as often as you wish, up to every 3 weeks.

Combine 2 Tablespoons Epsom salts (purchase in the shampoo section of the store) with 1 gallon of water. Apply to leaves via a spray bottle and/or pour on the soil, about 2 cups per plant. Repeat as often as you wish, up to every 3 weeks.

Growing Habit and Support

There are 3 types of tomatoes: Determinate, Semi-Determinate, and Indeterminate.

Determinate

Determinate tomatoes or “bush” tomatoes probably do not need support. They will grow in a compact space and produce their crop all at once. This type should not be pruned. Determinate tomatoes require 24″ spacing, or 4 squares. You can offer them support with a normal tomato cage, but it is not necessary.

Semi-Determinate

Semi-Determinate tomatoes grow bigger, and will likely need support. A sturdy tomato cage, staking, or trellising will work. Read more about supporting tomatoes. Once semi-determinate tomatoes reach a certain size, they will stop growing and producing.

I recommend this type of tomato cage for semi-determinate tomatoes. The cages can be shorter than 5′ and still provide enough support. Using this method allows you to grow them in 4 square feet per plant, 24″ spacing.

If you grow semi-determinate plants on a trellis or stake them, you can grow them in 1 square as long as you prune them religiously.

Without any support, semi-determinate tomatoes will take up 6-9 squares of space.

Indeterminate

Indeterminate tomatoes or “vining” tomatoes will continue to grow and produce until the season gets too cold. Without support, this type of tomato will require up to 9 square feet per plant. If you grow them on a vertical trellis or stake them, you can provide just one square foot per plant, but this requires pruning them almost daily.

I recommend this type of tomato cage for indeterminate tomatoes. The cages allow the plants to grow upwards, even up to 6 feet tall and requires only 4 square feet per plant.

Harvest

Harvest fruits as they ripen.

More Resources

• Tomato Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)
• Pruning Tomatoes
• Building Tomato Cages
• Supporting Tomatoes
• Recipe: Fresh Salsa
• Recipe: Canning Salsa
• Recipe: Yummy Marinara Sauce
• Recipe: Zucchini and Cornbread
• Recipe: Veggie Lasagna

Parsley is a semi-hardy vegetable that grows well in cool to warm conditions. Technically, it is a biennial (the full span from seed to flower is 2 years), but it will not survive freezing winter temperatures, so it is usually treated as an annual.

Spring Planting

Start seeds indoors 12 weeks before the frost date, or purchase transplants. Parsley takes a long time to germinate (2-4 weeks), so buying transplants is recommended.

Harden off and transplant outside 5 weeks before the frost date.

Fall Planting

If you live in a mild climate with a late or no fall frost date (after Nov 1), you might be able to grow parsley until it flowers and goes to seed.

Soil and Fertilizer

Parsley grows best in a rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and up to every 4 weeks.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting; 10-10-10 repeat up to every 4 weeks.

Harvest

Harvest by cutting the outside stalks of parsley as soon as the plants develop sprigs with 3 leaves. Harvesting this way promotes new growth of the plant.

More Resources

• Recipe: Yummy Marinara Sauce
• Recipe: Veggie Lasagna

Swiss chard is a semi-hardy vegetable that grow best in cool weather with lots of sun. Unlike many greens, chard will tolerate warmer temperatures without bolting or going to seed.

Spring Planting

Swiss chard can be planted directly in the garden 4 weeks before the frost date.

To harvest swiss chard sooner, start seeds indoors 10 weeks before the frost date, or purchase transplants.

Transplants are ready when they have 4-6 true leaves. Harden off and transplant outside 4 weeks before the frost date.

Fall Planting

Plant seeds directly in the garden 11 weeks before the frost date, or continue to grow plants from spring.

If daytime temperatures are still over 80°F, start seeds indoors 11 weeks before the frost date, or purchase transplants (if available).

Harden off and transplant outside 7 weeks before the frost date, or as soon as daytime temperatures are below 80°F.

The plants will mature more slowly in the fall because the days are shorter. If you provide some protection, you can continue harvesting after the first fall frost.

If you live in a mild climate with no fall frost date, you can plant swiss chard from seed and grow it all during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Swiss chard grows best in rich soil; amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting and once during the season, twice if growing late into the fall.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting and once or twice during the season

Harvest

Harvest outside leaves as soon as they are 6-10″ long. If seed stalks develop, pinch them off to prolong the harvest. Swiss chard will produce throughout the growing season.

Similar to: spinach, beets

More Resources

• Swiss Chard Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)

Carrots are a semi-hardy vegetable that grow best in cool weather with lots of sun.

Spring Planting

Carrots do not transplant well.

Plant carrot seeds directly in the garden 3 weeks before the last frost.

Carrot seeds take a long time to germinate, and need consistent watering until they do. It’s best to mist or use drip irrigation so you do not wash the carrot seeds away.

Fall Planting

Plant carrot seeds directly in the garden 14 weeks before the first fall frost date.

Carrots can becomes sweeter after a frost, so it’s a great vegetable to grow in the fall. If you can mulch carrots you can continue to harvest them about a month after the frost date.

If you live in a mild climate with no fall frost date, you can grow carrots during the winter.

Soil and Fertilizer

Carrots grow best in deep soil that is light or sandy, but retains moisture. Amend with lots of compost and fertilizer (chemical or organic) at planting. If you are growing carrots in raised garden beds, you will need at least 10″ of soil.

Fertilizer: 16-16-8 at planting

Harvest

Harvest when leaves are full size.

More Resources

• Carrots Reference Sheet (Utah Extension Service)
• Recipe: Veggie Lasagna
• Recipe: Thai Green Curry