Miriam’s 2012 Square Foot Garden Plan

You may also like...

4 Responses

  1. robandmir says:

    Pam, thanks for the info! I’ve seen both types of growth in my strawberries, it’s been a couple of years now, and the original spindly-looking plants you see in my pictures are now about 5 times as big and they’ve taken over a quarter of my garden (which is fine with me, as my 4 year old LOVES strawberries and I’ve yet to taste more than a bite of the smallest one because of her!). But, I think I may take your advice and move them to their own container this year or I may lose the entire garden to them. Do you know if they do well when transplanted, when I should transplant them, or if I should do anything special to the soil so I don’t lose them?

  2. Pam says:

    Hello Miriam, the strawberries increase two ways – the original plant increases in size and the plants also send out runners above the ground – they are stalks with little plants along them – where they touch the ground they root and make fresh plants.
    Putting a barrier over the soil will hinder them but the stalks can be quite long and will often find uncovered soil.
    Best way if you need to contain them is to plant them in their own container and when you see the new plantlets cut them off before they root.
    Best wishes

  3. robandmir says:

    Thank you so much! I guess I didn’t water the carrot enough because they were woodytasting and bitter (what a disappointment that was!). As for the strawberries-are they like bamboo where they send shoots out under ground-should I put a plastic border above ground only or extend the barrier below the surface as well?

  4. Emily says:

    Miriam–such a fun garden! What I LOVE about the square foot gardening method is that even when it’s left untended the weeds don’t take over!

    *Strawberries: they will grow and take over if you let them. Strawberries are a great ground cover, so if you have flower beds you might even consider giving them a spot to spread. I have never grown them, but my suggestion would be to put some kind of physical barrier between those sections of the garden. Wood or particle board would work, but degrade. Plastic might be better.

    *Carrots: I would suggest looking at the seed packet when you plant, and marking your calendar. It should tell you how many days from seed to harvest. Write it down, and come back on that day and pull one up. You should be able to tell by the length if it’s ready(did it grow as tall as the packet said?). If they are ready, you can either harvest all at once or eat them over the next week or two. One thing to note–if carrots and other root veggies get too much water they will be “hairy” with tons of fine little mini-roots. If they get too little water they will be woody and bitter.

    *Peas: generally, peas should not be fertilized with nitrogen once they are planted. You can work an all purpose fertilizer into the soil before planting (like 10-10-10), but after that I fertilize with 9-59-8. I find that the one I use promotes flowering and fruit production. http://www.fertilome.com

    The most common reason for flowers to drop is temperatures that are too warm. Are you planting your peas early (mid-Feb to mid-March) and growing them in the cool spring?

    As for protecting your garden, watch for a post on this coming next week!